New England and surrounds

Having arrived in Armidale, set up in the show grounds and we can't just sit around. Into the town centre and then a 2 hr self guided drive around the historic sites. We are very impressed with Armidale, it is well laid out with all services required and it has a really nice feel about it.

After not so good info from the local information centre, the next day we find everything we wanted to see was closed. You would think they would know. With time to spare, a visit to the regional art gallery was actually a really good surprise with great art, especially the Lindsay's on display, followed by a cafe stop of course and hook up and drive the 100k to Tamworth. Flat country side with not much that we wanted to see along the way, except for Julia to have a look at the "famous" wool shop at Uralla, with its $550 jumper - bet they sell a lot of those!

Arrived in Tamworth and we are ready to sing country - a visit to the Information Centre and then loaded up with good info this time, we are ready to plan our time, with a full day tomorrow. We wandered around Peel street which is the main CBD of Tamworth, what a bloody mess of traffic. There are pedestrian crossings every 20 metres it seems and so traffic is at a stand still, blocking intersections and causing chaos. After waiting for nearly 10 minutes to get across, first gear and just crawled in. They gave way eventually. A quick climb up Mt. Oxley to the lookout gave a panoramic view of the town - you don't realise it is so big.

 

Intrepid cyclists

Wednesday started with a long bike ride along the Peel river in the sunshine which meant we were ready for the Golden Guitar and the Country Hall of Fame, just south of the town. A nice place for lunch and a wander through the exhibits, very interesting to look at the progression of country music in Australia and its origins put down to Tex Morton (who was a kiwi) and the display was excellent. We then went, once again, on the self guided tour of the historic sites of the town. The information sheet gives spot on directions with a description of each site and we have found that it is a really good way to see the important bits, without having to go on the organised tours. We then finished off at the display - Walk a Country Mile museum - back at the info centre, an interactive and static display with video and artifacts showing the history of country music in Australia, all very interesting and well worth the $4.50 admission.

John Williamson

Thursday and it hard to believe this trip is nearly over. Today begins the two day hop to arrive in Bowral on Friday to catch up with the relatives. We wanted to bypass Bathurst due to the car races on the weekend and so began our circuitous route through the horse country of Scone, the back roads to Merriwa through to Mudgee and then to a free camp spot at a locality at Ilford. The country side was rolling hills of grassland, probably a little slower than the major highways, but much nicer. We also missed all the traffic heading to Bathurst. There are so many places where communities are trying to attract passing travelers. One is Wallabadah, just 50k south of Tamworth, where there is a memorial garden to the first fleet and a wide open free camp area just a short walk to the pub.

First Fleet Memorial Park

The next day the trusty GPS took us the shortest route to Goulburn, but we think maybe the longest,through the little hamlets of Tarana, Portland, Meadow flat and Oberon, real mountain territory, steep grazing land, rolling valleys and then miles and miles of tree plantations.
There were large numbers of old buildings to admire that appeared to be exactly as they would have been when built 100 years ago. Makes you wonder if the boxes we build today will have the same appeal to future generations as these old ones do to us.

Gods Own Country

Oberon would have to have the largest factory we have seen where they manufacture MDF board ( ex CarterHolt, Gill). Some very steep hills to climb and even steeper ones to crawl down, especially when there is a couple of ton of van pushing you. 2nd gear and 40kph were the norm a couple of times. We were glad to have taken this route as it was well worth it for the views alone and much better than the straight boring highway.
Early afternoon after the last 50k stretch along the Hume Hwy, arrival in Mittagong to drop the van, the only caravan park close to Bowral. There is even a lack of free camps around this area which is surprising seeing its popularity.
Monday will see us on the home stretch to Gembrook and then end of a wonderful 8 weeks on the road. Sad to see it come to an end, over 11000 kilometers, nothing major to go wrong with car, van and personnel and we can't ask for more than that. We have seen some wonderful sites, met some great and interesting people from all walks of life, seen some incredible mobile rigs and lifestyles and have been impressed, in the majority, with the openness and welcoming of most people on the road.
It is also a tribute to the inhabitants of small rural villages who are adapting to having travelers come to their towns and are making changes to attract and encourage them to stay.

The end

 (until the next adventure)

Into New South Wales

Fancy being kicked out of Ipswich because a circus is coming - thought we were it...........we didn't plan to do much distance today and so headed south to Warwick past the Amberley Air force base (not open today of course), the road being hilly to start with, becoming mountainous through Cunningham's Gap which just seemed to go on and on and on..........and up and up...........

We avoided Stanthorpe and then took the fruit drive (another tourist drive, go figure) where all we saw was dying localities, closed stalls,possibly due to the bypass of the Cunningham Hwy - we should have stuck to the highway. At the border of QLD and NSW is the town of Wallangara which is where the rail line gauge changed, meaning all passengers and freight had to change to a new train. The station has been fully restored and contains a cafe and history displays. A town that is making the most of their past to ensure their future.

Into Tenterfield and of course, we started singing the damn song. It is one of the homes of Federation and in fact one of only three designated Federation towns in Australia (no we don't know where the others are). There is history here other than Peter Allan, even if his maracas are in the information centre. A run up to Mount McKenzie lookout, the Cork tree that was planted in 1861 (seedling brought from England in a jam tin) and is the largest cork tree in Australia, the Tenterfield saddlers house (he was real) and then that was enough for the day.

Tenterfield Rail Museum

The railway museum was close enough to walk around the corner too, even if it was closed. Lovely old building in the setting sun and also a market place on Saturday (which Julia will visit no doubt).
Leaving Tenterfield, after having two large nails removed and the van tyre repaired, we headed south wards again via Lismore and Casino over the ranges with lovely views and in towards Ballina, a coastal village where we had previously spent time on holidays. Due to the holiday crowds we were staying about 11k to the north at Alstonville, which is apparently to historic hub or the service centre or something of the area for some reason. Not enough time to figure out why. The Ballina fair was on with music e, buskers and food stalls which we managed to catch the tail end of in the late afternoon sunshine. A walk along the harbour wall and then back to the van for a late dinner.

Ballina surfers
 

Sunday was the long drive from Ballina to Beringen, the start of the water fall way. Our route took us through seaside towns of Yamba, McLean (a Scottish town with tartan on lamp posts), Uranga, all as we drove past massive rivers. Interesting at the time was the speeding boats with skiers on the bridge to bridge (Grafton to Harwood bridge and back, 108k at 120mph -ouch). This area is known as the Northern Rivers.
Parked the van at the Bellingen show grounds and then a 60k visit south the Scott's Head to meet up with relatives holidaying from Sydney. Beach walk and dinner and ready to fall into bed much later than we normally do.

Bellingen coffee

With not far to go on Monday we spent some time walking the streets of Bellingen which is, apparently, an old hippie town. We managed to find an upstairs cafe which had the best coffee for the whole trip - gave the heart a real kick start. Managed to find a couple of bargains in the recycle shops so all in all a pleasant morning.
A slow trip north along the picturesque, steep, narrow and 14k climb along the Waterfall Way. Not many running falls unfortunately as it has been so dry. We made a stop at Doriggo and a visit to a local woodwork display, amazing what people can make with wood - very envious. Out of Doriggo is the Dangar Falls which was well recommended and slightly impressive. Lunch stop at the much more spectacular Wollomombi Gorge and falls, no water but very deep and impressive.

Dangar Falls

Wollomombi Gorge

Finally into Armidale into a very strong wind and a possibility of RAIN - not sure what that feels like as we haven't seen any for 7 weeks.

Maleny, Toowoomba and surrounds

Leaving Hervey Bay we wanted to miss some of the Bruce Hwy so stayed on the Hervey Bay Road to Maryborough, a much quieter route with virtually no traffic. Unfortunately we needed to hit the highway again but a morning tea stop was required so we turned off to the little town of Bauple to visit the Saturday Market - oops, a little disappointing is the understatement. Driving in we were abused by a local driving past, there were 6 stalls selling not much and Pensioners inc. playing rock and roll music out loud. A classic car rally of 8 old Holden's, fords and ramblers finished off the market. We did manage to buy some nice passion fruit biscuits and then on our way.

A pleasant drive through mountains led us to the town of Maleny where we planned to stay at the local show grounds. They had been developed with a new amenities block to attract travelers. We had our first rain in 6 weeks though it was still warm during the day. There was a lovely river walk into a bustling town, full of cafes, restaurants, interesting shops and galleries and just a little bit hippy and old worldly. The sun had come out, along with many people strolling along the Main Street. The place has a really nice feel about it.

The next day was towards Toowoomba through the mountains, overlooking the Glass House range - large monoliths rising straight up, very impressive indeed. A scenic route taken was via Sommerset Dam and the little town of Esk. Great views around the hinterland and not much traffic which is surprising seeing

Sommerset Dam

it is the weekend.The road, though windy was very comfortable to drive until the end where there is a long (2.5k) steep windy climb into Toowoomba which was quite interesting with a heavy van behind. There were a number of vehicles struggling, even stopped - hard to get going again on that slope.

Toowoomba is a garden town and the main festival for the year, the Carnival of flowers, had just finished today. There are over 150 public parks and gardens here, all in full bloom with magnificent flower gardens full of colour. Not bad seeing the town is on stage 5 water restrictions. Picnic Point park is the main viewing platform for the Lockyer Valley back towards Brisbane. A stroll around the Ju Raku En Japanese gardens attached to the local university. A very relaxing place indeed.

Day 2 in Toowoomba started slow with a sleep in (nice) then back into the main town for a tour of the sites - the Art Deco Empire theatre, heritage rail way station, Cobb and Co museum, Queens Park, Laurel Bank - amazing how quickly the day just went. We have decided to put in a 3rd day here as our plans changed and we will now head to Brisbane (we were going to bypass) to see a friend in hospital there. We were originally going to catch up with them in Balina but not happening now.
Day 3 and a visit to the local art gallery to see the Australian masters - Roberts, McGubben, Lindsay etc only to find one Lindsay on show and all the rest in storage - very disappointing. A drive north to the Crows Nest area which is renowned for being an art and craft community. Stopped off at the shop on the way boasting over 1000 cuckoo clocks of all shapes, sizes and designs, as well as wall, grandfather and carriage clocks. All out of our price range for sure. Nice cafe as well for a spot of lunch, then what is called the Dam drive past the two water storage for Townsville and in to Crows Nest proper - didn't really live up to its reputation.

Wednesday and down the hill to Ipswich, only about 90k where we dumped the van and into Brisbane proper to catchup with friends, one who was having multiple by-pass surgery while we were on our way. Spent time with Liz until Neil was out of theatre - all good. The last time we had seen them was in Alice Springs so it was great to catch up, even under these circumstances.

Thursday and with the car once again in the service centre getting an unexplained noise checked out, we walked into the main centre of Ipswich, checking out the Art Gallery, historic precinct, the mall and the River Link shopping centre. The car is fixed and once we collected same, via the courtesy bus sent to pick us up, a visit to the rail museum, huge, interactive displays, a simulator where you drove a diesel loco (with sound effects as well) and the history of the area where rail used to employ over 8000 people - huge.

Friday we begin our run further south and into NSW.

Agnes Waters to Fraser Island

The trip south to Agnes Waters, once again via the Bruce Hwy seemed to take no time at all, even with the ubiquitous roadworks. A left turn to the east for about 30k and we were at the village of Agnes Waters and the gateway to 1770. This is the spot where, in 1770 (of course), Captain James Cook along with Joseph Banks anchored the Endeavour. We found our camp for the night, a bush camp in town along a sandy track, under the palm trees with the sound of the crashing surf - a place called Workman's Beach. This is a council park with basic facilities but $6 per night - who could complain? Very peaceful, even if the critters were big.

Bustard Bay

A drive to 1770 to the Cook lookout into Bustard Bay, named after they shot a bustard, ate it and said it was the best since leaving England. A farmer in Charleville some weeks ago told us they tasted bloody awful, so they might be an acquired taste (even though the are now protected). Tea rooms were found for delicious smoothies and cake for the afternoon and then back to 1770 for the sunset. It is one of the few places on the eastern seaboard of Australia where the sun sets over water. Good spot for a drink as well.

1770

An early start after a joke with the local rangers at 7:30 am, there to collect our fees, heading via Bundaberg to capture "bundy bear" on instructions from No. 3 son. The road bypassed the Bruce Hwy, through more cane fields and rural properties, though the road was a little bouncy and narrow. Mission accomplished and bundy on board and we continued south to our destination of Hervey Bay. A large, busy town that seemed to have peak hour traffic all day. Rows and rows of shops selling everything imaginable in a strip about 2k long - all the major retailers in a row. Our main interest in being here is it as the jump,off point for Fraser Island, which is planned for Friday (tomorrow). It is the largest sand island in the world and we have heard so much about it from other travelers - the barge leaves at 8:30, bus from accommodation at 7:20 so another early start.

4WD Island transport

Grey sky's and wind for the day and after an uneventful ferry trip we boarded our big 4WD bus and disappeared along the rough sand tracks into the bush. The island has not been logged since the early 1900's (major industry) so the sub tropical Forrest is lush. Speed is limited on the tracks to 30k max but is really much less as the tracks are in a pretty poor state with deep, soft sand. A car and camper van just off the ferry was bogged within 10 minutes and therefore blocking the road for every one. Time wasted and we were playing catch up for the rest of the day.

The highlight of the day for Julia was seeing two humpback whales frolicking off the beach as we drove along, but no dingoes seen. Seeing it was school holidays,there were many campers set up along the dunes, tents, campers, vans with some very intricate set ups - it looks like whole communities had moved in. We were taken to the main attractions of the island over the day, even though the tour was a little rushed. It just takes so much time to get from point to point in the sand. Beautiful clear streams of fresh water,ship wrecks, tall trees, large lakes. It was a full day- not home until nearly 7:00pm, so dinner at an Irish pub capped off a great day. Chatting with our driver and I could see a job opportunity here for a couple of months in the year , just have to get the bus licence.

Saturday and we head inland towards Toowoomba.

South to Rockhampton

A sunny day to leave Airlie Beach heading further south towards, back through Proserpine and then down the Bruce Hwy. Due to the school holidays, there were many vans, trailers and cars heading north and this made the south drivers even more impatient than ever. We even had B Doubles overtaking and forcing their way in; now we know why they are called cowboys. At least we are not in a hurry and prepared to let them go.
We by passed Mackay as we had been warned that once in, it is a difficult place to find you way out. There is a type of ring road that will take you west and you come out at Sarina, via Marian. We took a break at Sarina and spent a very informative couple of hours at the Sugar Shed, a mini display of a working sugar mill. The guide knew his stuff and was full of facts, figures and anecdotes about the sugar industry from growing to producing.

St. Lawrence pub - old or quaint?

Following the highway down the coast, the road didn't improve much, the traffic was heavier and we were glad to stop at a little place called St. Lawrence, about 7k off the highway. The local council had upgraded facilities for travelers with showers, toilets and a flat place to park, all for the princely sum of $0. There was a donation box if you felt so inclined, the locals occasionally have a sausage sizzle for the travelers and the pub and bowling club put on meals if needed. Great facility that encouraged passing traffic to stop and possibly spend a dollar. Met some nice people from Seattle who were heading north to the Daintree area and then south to Melbourne later in the year.

Next day was driving through the "badlands" area, called such due to a large number of murders over the years on this stretch of highway between Rockhampton and Townsville. Interesting to read a little history in articles written over the years. Well, nothing happened to us and we then limped in to the little hamlet of Kinka Beach, between Yeppoon and Emu Park, about 50k from Rockhampton. Car trouble with the front end/brakes making an un-wholly noise. Not driving any further so a tow arranged for Monday morning to get it fixed. Such a nice spot to stop, 50m from the beach, even if you need to take a cut lunch and a water bottle to get anywhere near swimming depth. The tide goes out for nearly 500m.

The water is there somewhere!

Monday and the tow arrived as planned, into the dealership at Rockhampton and then off to pick up a hire car. A walk along to Fitzroy river which runs through the centre of town, and floods on a regular basis. Also, there are, of course, crocodiles in the river - that would make fishing from the banks interesting. A local said to us that no way would he go near the river so there might be something to the stories.

Into the Rockhampton Art Gallery, it was free, interesting but a small collection so it didn't take long so we headed off to the other end of town to the Botanic Gardens (don't know why they aren't botanical) which also house the Rockhampton Zoo, once again all free. The zoo holds the largest collection of southern hairy nose wombats in the world, apparently as a study group to try and preserve the norther hairy nose wombats which are listed a the 7th most endangered mammal in the world - who would have guessed?

Good news received, the car is fixed and ready to go - we thought it may have taken up to a couple of days so the gods must have been looking at us favorably. We dropped the hire car back and headed back to camp. It just goes to show the benefits of Total Care when traveling as all the arrangements were made by them, tow, accommodation and hire car cost. Good on RACV, could not recommend them highly enough.
Tuesday and a trip up the coast to Yeppoon via Keppel Bay. We were warned not to bother going out to Great Keppel Island - expensive to get to and nothing there when you do. Instead of the old saying "get wrecked on Great Keppel", apparently IT is wrecked - bad management over the years.
When one of the top things to do in Yeppoon is to have a coffee, you realize there is not much there. Lots of shops, a beach community, sun and wind and a $2 hot dog from Wendy's and we were on our way back to kinka beach. A quick look at Emu Park where the singing ship memorial to Captain James Cook who named Keppel Bay - the wind in the wires activates the organ pipes. The only problem is that the tune really sucks.

Wednesday and off to Agnes Waters and then Hervey Bay to see Fraser Island.

South and West from Townsville

After a lovely 2 days in Townsville it was time to head west to Charters Towers, a town built on gold and proud of its heritage. The Flinders Hwy took us the 130k, stop on the way of course for morning coffee and having a chat with a bloke from Charles Sturt University who had been to the piggery and had "guts" in the back of his ute. By that he meant he had containers of entrails for the veterinary students to practice with - much more refined than "guts". An interesting fellow indeed.

Old buildings of Charters Towers

Charters Towers has many old buildings, well preserved by the Council, with the history built on Gold mining. It is home to many exhibits exploring their past, as well as the quirky- such as a Texan Longhorn Ranch, with, you guessed right again, Texan Longhorn cattle. One of them holds the world record of over 2.5m tip to tip. At $50/head for the tour we said forget it. We get a little tired of paying through the nose for so called tourist events such as this. The tour only goes for an hour to see cows and kangaroos - whoopee!

Macrossen Bridge

We had left the van about 20k out of Charters Towers at a free park beside the Burdekin River near the Macrossan Bridge, a great spot with basic facilities and a beautiful sunset. Very serene and many friendly campers around, though not cheek to jowl like some places. Tuesday we head further south towards Airlie Beach and the Whitsunday Islands.

Whitsunday water and boats

The Bruce "roadworks" Highway took us through sugar cane and pineapple plantations towards the beaches. A stop in Bowen where much of the Baz Lurhman film Australia was filmed did nothing to excite the senses - wide streets, so so beaches - a little ho-hum but maybe we had been on the road too long today. We understand that there are some lovely spots around Bowen but we didn't see them.
We arrived at Airlie Beach and set up camp and looking forward to a relaxing afternoon.
Wednesday was a wander day, through the market places, coffee with the tourists, watching the people stroll past and soaking up the Whitsunday vibes. All very pleasant. There is a huge amount of work being done around the main street with a beautification program, paving and planting everywhere. Maybe the town is gearing up for the school holidays which start at the end of the week. That means we will now have to start planning ahead where we are staying as the pesky Victorians and NSW people head north. A full day 3 island tour has been booked for Thursday, something to look forward to.

Daydream Island

An early start, bus at 6.55am to the marina to join our tour. First stop is Daydream Island, the only resort that actually take up the entire island. It has everything that you would want for a holiday, is quite modern (completely refurbished 13 years ago) and would be somewhere we would love to come back and stay. They have the largest outdoor aquarium in the Southern Hemisphere. Well set up seeing the original owners bought it for £200 in 1933.

Lunch at Hamilton island

The next stop is Hamilton Island - oh boy what a contrast to Daydream. Fully commercialised and built up, restaurants, shops, resorts - it has it all. Even a golf course where the PGA will be played next month. Also the shortest commercial runway in the Southern Hemisphere with water both ends. Real estate is expensive, the cheapest block of land $1.5 mil., 1 br apartment $850000, resorts at $2000 +/night. A great lunch overlooking the marina and had a fascinating talk with Noni who has a 105 year old mother who lives independently, she is a jazz pianist, had her own jazz restaurant in Hobart, travels to the outback tutoring, still has paid employment which she needed a break from - wow, she must be close to 80 and is talking about buying a place in the country to grow veggies and have dogs. Wonderful to meet these enthusiastic people who make you feel great.

Onto the beach - quickly

Onto Whitehaven Beach which is only accessible by boat, in a national park. Brilliant white sand which is like powder. It is very fine silica which will play havoc with electronic equipment. Our boat had to drop us on the sand very quickly and then back off due to the falling tide. There is absolutely nothing at the beach other than what you bring. Walking the beach, swimming or lying in the shade/sun/shade/sun whiled away the two hours then back on the boat to head back to Airlie Beach. Tomorrow is another quiet day, washing, relaxing by the pool and planning our next stops (due to the holidays).

Homeward bound

Of course, traveling around these places is very interesting in that you meet the most unexpected people. An old couple next door to us were retired dairy farmers from Rochester, a place where we lived for 9 years and had our children. Opposite us was a work colleague of David's who he hadn't seen for 6 years and who lives in Melbourne. It is a small world once again where time lines collide many kilometers from home.

Mission Beach to Townsville

sunrise

Happy Campers

A lovely 4 nights spent 50 metres from the sea at the Dunk Island View caravan park that is struggling back from the devastation of cyclone Yasi in 2011. Weather is warm and humid but apparently the sea is too cold for fishing, only 27 degrees, needs to be a little higher for the mackerel - suits us just fine.

It was a chance to give the van and car a goooooooood clean and get rid of the red dirt/dust at last. Cleaning out the backof the ute, finding strange bolts and nuts and then trying to figure where they had to go back which took a while. The bouncing over the last few weeks certainly took its toll.
A pleasant drive down the Bruce Hwy where there were minimal roadworks - a lot less than we anticipated. A detour off to see some waterfalls until we asked someone how far they were from the car park - the answere was "do you have a car?" - yeah but with a big van on it - somehow that caused a smirk. We forgo the waterfall and head south again. We had hoped to stay at Saunders Beach, a free camp 20k from Townsville, but missed the last spot by about 15 minutes. Maybe if we didn't have the waterfall detour - who knows.

The Strand water park

On to Townsville and a nice walk along The Strand, a waterfront public area, looking over to Magnetic Island. There was a nasty smell coming off the ocean and we were reliably informed that it was "red tide", an algae of some sort - google it she said...........whatever; it smells. Didn't stop us stopping for delicious gelato of course. That then gave us strength to take the drive to Castle Hill lookout, a steep climb that gave 360 degree views over Townsville and surrounds. A nervous passenger meant we didn't stay up there for long even though the views were amazing.

Townsville and Magnetic Island for Castle Hill

It appears that the lookout is a Mecca for fitness nuts - there were people running, walking and cycling up and down - mad fools, that's why they invented cars.
Sunday and a ferry ride of 20 minutes across to Magnetic Island, landing in Nelly Bay.. We haven't been here since our honeymoon in 1977 so much is expected to have changed. The old Magnetic Hotel is no more, infact we have trouble remembering where it used to be.

The best way to get around is by bus, great service and a day ticket at $7.40 for unlimited trips the way to go. There are only 4 main areas on the island so the start at Picnic Bay seemed the most logical. Green blue sea, blue sky, sun, swaying palms, mad strangler fig trees abound - should paint a tropical picture for you. Lunch at the pub in the outside dining area and we could have stayed all day. Alas no, onto the bus and to Horseshoe Bay at the top of the island. Here there were many restaurants, beach activities, board hire, etc. the algae bloom smell was back with us (as we were warned by the bus driver) but there was entertainment on the beach so we managed a few hours.

Beach entertainment - looks like it could hurt!

Then to Arcadia and Alma Bay for a swim in the warm water and lie on the beach. Bus return to Nelly Bay and ferry back to Townsville - a pleasant day had by all.
Monday we head further south via Charters Towers to Airlie Beach and the Whitsunday Islands.

Paronella Park and to the coast

Still heading eastwards along the Kennedy Hwy towards the waterfall loop. The road is improved though many stops for roadworks. Our first detour was to the Millstream falls, the widest single drop falls in Australia. Then on to Ravenshoe which is the highest town in QLD - it seems we may tick all the boxes today, just need a big pineapple or something........

Millstream Falls

A lunch/morning tea combination at Mungali Creek Dairy, a biodynamic farm was a must, after passing the Township of Millaa Millaa. The road is extremely narrow and was made worse by 100's of cyclists who were riding from Mission Beach to Port Douglas, 520km. 3/4 of them looked half dead, some very "large" people who struggled with the 12 degree 14km hill before their stop, not a fun ride......
Due to roadworks, cyclists and hills and stops, it has taken us nearly 3 hours to get 100k - lucky were aren't in a hurry.

Paronella Park

Our night was spent at a place called Paronella Park. This is a castle built in 1930 by Jose Paronella, a Spanish cane cutter. The skeleton structures are all that remain of what he took 6 years to complete. It has its own hydro electric plant ( which now feeds back into the grid), beautiful gardens that were planted with over 7000 plants, secret paths and waterfalls. Quite impressive and the tours are a must. Planning to stay - book in advance as there are minimal sites for vans.

fine travelers

We proceeded along Cane Cutters Way, surrounded by, you guessed it, cane fields on both sides for as far as you can see (well to the mountains at least). Crossing the Bruce Hwy our first destination was Kurramine Beach and our first sighting of the northern Queensland sea and beaches, a beautiful warm and sunny day - picturesque. Our next destination is Mission Beach where we intend to stay for a few days (50metres from the sand and sea).

Sunrise at Mission Beach

Continuing the travels of our friendly companion

Lava caves to hot springs

We have left Cobbold Gorge behind, another tortuous drive down the terrible road to Forsayth. Little did we know of the roads ahead. Forsayth must have something going for it as it rates a police station and there is one little pub. We followed the signs to Einasleigh and hit more dirt, a little rougher than before but pressed on. We stopped to look at Copperfield Gorge which is located opposite the Einasleigh Hotel. It seems to be a lava flow that has split in two, quite beautiful with black rock and green water.

With directions from the publican, we were on our way to Mt.Surprise. Little did we know that the surprise was the road - a bush track for 45k that was masquerading as a main road. If we thought the Cobbald road was bad, this was 5 times worse. All I can say is thank goodness for a strong van and the 4WD, not a road for standard car or van.

Arriving in Mt.Surprise for lunch time was spent cleaning out the fridge of all the spilt, broken and splattered contents. We will have to work out a different system me thinks. A little further on and arrived at Undara with a booking for the tour tomorrow.

Undara is well laid out with bush settings and is only one of two places to tour the lava tubes from. It originally was part of a large cattle station until part was sold off to the parks and gardens to create a National Park and therefore protect and control access to the tubes. A very informative guide Chris (a very laconic laid back Aussie who has travelled all over the out back), took us through what are huge underground caves where lava flowed in enormous quantities at great temperatures, cooling on the outside to form roofs. Very impressive and BIG! We also learnt very quickly that Queensland does not have Boab trees but they have Bottle trees and they are not related - we were all put in our place.........

Bottle Tree

Lunch at Undara and then eastwards along the Kennedy hwy, much nicer road than we have travelled lately and then an evening stop at the Innot Hot Springs. This is the actual name of the place,funny little van park but with pools of hot thermal bubbling water. Very relaxing. There is a small river where the hot springs come out as well so you can scrape a hole in the sand and have your own private soak. We were warned that in some places the water is over 80 degrees and so can actually scald you.

Onto the Savannah Way to the Coast

Leaving Karumba we allowed ourselves time to stop and look around Normanton. Historic little town with wide streets and Kyrs, the 8 plus metre crocodile, in the Main Street - shot back in 1956(about) by Mrs. Poslowski. It had just been repainted as part of a spruce up. Great old buildings and good information centre which was the original town store selling everything. They had a great photo display showing the effects of the floods during the wet - wouldn't want to go live there then (Krys may come back).

Further along the Savannah way we decided to rest our weary bones at Croydon. This is the site of major gold discoveries in the late 1800's Nd it has retained a large number of intact historic buildings from that era. A very easy town to walk around. The camp ground is in the middle of town and we joined in to the out door theatre extravaganza, watching a 1998 movie, paperback hero with Hugh Jackman, while the pet sheep licked the back of Julia's neck and the dog wanted its stick thrown, a fun night indeed.

Headed off east into the headwind - again........through to Georgetown along either dual or single lane highway which alternated it seems, every 30k or so. Bought a few supplies as well as a stop at, apparently, the best butcher in Queensland so we were told ( the rump steak was delicious). It is a good idea to fuel up here as well as there is not much around and it is not a bad price. The whole area is suffering the drought and the town is nearly out of water - all praying for rain. The temperature has dropped to a pleasant 27 degrees and we have cloud for the first time in 3 weeks.

Off down a little further south heading to Cobbold Gorge via Forsayth. The Gorge is located on a 330000 acre cattle station and is a permanent water hole located in a fissure in the rock escarpment. It can only be viewed by organised tour. We were warned about the roads - oh the road , beware the road , beware the road etc, etc,etc. we even had a traveler at Croydon warning us, his bull bar fell off, his CB Ariel sheared off, his tailpipe fell, his hair piece fell off, etc, etc, etc. Well we were prepared, sought of....
Corrugations you could drive a herd of cattle through, cattle grids that matched a roller coaster, flood ways that rolled and rolled - all in all an interesting drive for 1.5 hours. But, finally we arrived, booked in and ready for the Gorge tour on Election Day (so we don't have to listen). There was minimal disruption in the van, little things such as the door of the microwave falling off (fixed) contents of the refrigerator spilling out(cleaned up) and the door shelf broken ( taped up) - not too bad considering.

A fire was lit and Julia can use the billy she bought in Longreach. It was put to good use to cook the spuds and then the water for the coffee - oh what a happy lassie she is. I believe boiled insects are good for you. Red wine, coffee, toblerone and lamington are also good for you.

The Cobbold Gorge camping resort is well laid out with powered, unpowered and cabins available. There is a restaurant, bar, infinity pool (very refreshing) to make it all comfortable for the weary traveler. All very pleasant and made the decision to stay an extra night very easy.

The three hour Cobbald Gorge tour started with a bus ride and then a stroll through the bush, learning about bush tucker, the farm, climbing into butterfly caves (1000's of butterfly's), a grave out in the middle of now where (John Corbetts - even found on topographic maps) and then an electric motorised punt down to narrow gorge (only an arm span in some places) a cool place in the heat of the day. There are fresh water crocodiles lurking, along with turtles and fish. The Gorge was only discovered in the mid 90's by the owners who then opened it up to tourists.

Another night here and then on to the Lava tubes at Undara.

The Gulf

Not much that we wanted to see in Cloncurry, other than the sign that said it had the highest recorded temperature in Australia of 127 degrees Fahrenheit back in 1898 - 53c - bloody hot.

Heading north now along the Matilda hwy where we stopped at the Bourke and Wills road house for fuel and morning tea. There would have been 10 road trains stopped, all full of cattle heading south - either for sale, export or agistment due to the drought conditions. The road was a narrow single lane for part with long areas of dual lane.

The country side is dotted with large numbers of termite mounds, and in one case we mistook a section as a graveyard. There were about 30 mounds all under a tree with nothing around them - spooky. They just looked like tombstones.

We have arrived at Karumba at last via Normanton and the Gulf is before us. A large flock of Brolgas in a water hole as we approached welcomed us to our Northern destination. Weather is hot and breezy but we don't care. It has only taken 4200k to arrive so we plan to stay at least 4 nights. As expected, nearly everything is tourist orientated with world famous fish and chips at Ashes, world famous sunset at the sunset bar etc etc etc.

The bikes came off and we road into Karumba itself as we are staying at Karumba point (much nicer) - a little weird that we are warned to watch out for crocodiles on the bike track but hey, we are north........dinner was at the sunset tavern, a short walk away where barramundi was eaten as we watched the sun dip into the Gulf, rather special though we have seen more intense sunsets.

Up at 6:15 to join KerryD charters for a spot of fishing. Everything supplied and skipper Paul motored us out into the gulf. What a great morning and successful outing with all on board catching more fish than needed. Blue salmon, silver back salmon but no barramundi. Our neighbour Colin offered his services with the cleaning and filleting and seeing he is a professional fisherman and still fishes every week at 73 y.o. - very spry, I took him up on his offer. We ended with enough fish for 12 decent meals so into the freezer they went. Can highly recommend the charter as a good way to see the gulf, fish, and get lots of local info as well. 5 1/2 hours well spent.

Charter time

Enough fish for a month

4th September - another hot day with the breeze coming up so a washing morning as we prepare to head out tomorrow. A little beach fishing and then 1/2kg of prawns and chips or lunch at Ashes(world famous!!!!) and a swim in the pool to cool down. It is amazing the people you meet as every one is willing to talk about their travels, where they have been, what to see and what to miss. Great when planning the next destination . There are some people who have been in the park to 8 months, some who come for 3 months every year, a 91 yo from Dubbo who drives himself here every year and stays 4 months (gets around on his frame) - brilliant. We have met people for all states, and people working here for NYC.